Using salt and de-icing agents on roads and walkways is a common practice in areas where winter weather can become hazardous. While salt is helpful for people, it can cause serious damage to trees, shrubs, and other greenery in your yard. 

Most people wait until winter salt damage on shrubs becomes visible, but oftentimes, visible damage means it’s too late. Roots may already be stressed before buds start to break through. 

Correcting salt injury in shrubs now helps prevent spring dieback and stunted growth. Read on to learn how to fix salt-damaged plants.  

How Salt Injury Happens Over Winter 

Salt stress in landscape plants happens when road salt, typically sodium chloride, is distributed. Road salt is often sprayed or splashed onto nearby plants and soil. When it accumulates into the soil over time, it can disrupt water absorption. Freeze-thaw cycles also draw accumulated salt into the plant's root zone. When salt is airborne from spraying or plowing, it can damage buds and branches. 

Common Shrubs Affected by Salt Stress 

While all shrub species experience salt stress, some are less tolerant of salt than others. Some shrubs that are more affected by salt stress include: 

  • Flowering shrubs can experience leaf damage, dieback, and growth issues, and root damage from road salt. 
  • Evergreen shrubs show browning or burnt edges if salt stressed. 
  • Deciduous shrubs may not show injuries like brown, scorched leaf margins, premature leaf drop, and dieback until leaf-out. 

Early Signs of Salt Stress in Shrubs 

The first step in road salt plant injury recovery is to identify the signs of salt stress as early as possible. Here are some symptoms to keep an eye out for before the growing season: 

  • Browning or yellowing leaf tips on evergreens 
  • Discoloration or dried-out buds 
  • Salt residue appearing as a white crusty film on soil or stems 
  • Curling, dry bark on lower branches 

How to Fix Salt-Damaged Plants (Step-by-Step) 

The good news is that correcting salt injury in shrubs is possible! Here are our step-by-step recommendations: 

  • Leach Salt from Soil – When it comes to leaching salt from soil, focus on areas near sidewalks, driveways, and roads. Once the soil thaws, slowly water 6 to 12 inches below the root zone to flush the salt.  
  • Use Soil Amendments to Aid Recovery – The first step for using soil amendments at any time is to perform a soil test before applying any product to ensure you don’t throw off your soil’s physical and chemical composition. Gypsum for salt-damaged soil displaces sodium and loosens soil. Compost improves microbial activity and moisture retention. Biochar or organic matter restores structure and absorbs residual salts. 
  • Apply Anti-Desiccants If Buds Are Still Dormant – Anti-desiccants shield evergreen foliage from further salt and wind stress. It’s best applied on dry, above-freezing days. 
  • Mulch the Right Way – Apply or refresh mulch 2 to 3 inches deep and keep mulch 3 to 6 inches away from tree trunks to avoid root flare damage from volcano mulching. 

When to Prune Salt-Damaged Branches 

It’s best to prune salt-damaged branches in late winter to early spring, just before new growth begins, as it’s easy to identify dead wood. An ISA-Certified arborist has the expertise needed to prune salt-damaged branches without risk of going overboard and cutting live branches. 

For healthy buds, wait after the spring flush to assess new growth before pruning. 

Winter Salt Shrub Injury FAQs: What to Know Before Spring

Salt residue appearing as a white crusty film on soil and leaves, foliage discoloration, and curling bark on lower branches are all early signs of salt damage. 

It’s best to water deep and slowly to flush salt from soil, around 6 to 12 inches deep.

Both compost and mulch are great options for correcting salt injury in shrubs. Compost helps boost microbial activity while mulch helps to retain moisture.

It’s best to wait until the soil thaws to flush out salt-damaged plants.

Here Are Common Signs of Rock Salt Damage On Trees. 

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Image 22@2X

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